Author

HENRY STEDMAN has been writing

guidebooks for over 20 years now and is

the author of Trailblazer’s guides to

Kilimanjaro, Coast to Coast Path,

Hadrian’s Wall Path, Dales Way and the

co-author of their three titles to the South

West Coast Path. With him on this trek, as

with every walk he does in the UK, was

D

AISY, his (mostly) faithful dog. An

experienced long-distance walker, Daisy

has already completed all the trails above

with Henry and her ambition is to walk all

15 National Trails.

Cleveland-1_Colour 1 pp1-16_Prelims Template 7/9/18 5:26 pm Page 1

Cleveland Way

First edition: 2019

Publisher: Trailblazer Publications

The Old Manse, Tower Rd, Hindhead, Surrey, GU26 6SU, UK

www.trailblazer-guides.com

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library

ISBN 978-1-905864-91-1

Editor: Anna Jacomb-Hood; Layout & Index: Anna Jacomb-Hood

Proofreading: Jane Thomas; Cartography: Nick Hill

Photographs (flora and fauna): © Bryn Thomas (unless otherwise indicated)

Cover and main photographs: © Henry Stedman (unless otherwise indicated)

this publication may be reproduced in any form without the written consent of the

publisher and copyright owner.

The maps in this guide were prepared from out-of-Crown-

copyright Ordnance Survey maps amended and updated by Trailblazer.

Acknowledgements

Thanks to everyone who helped with the research of this new guide. At Trailblazer, thanks

to: Anna Jacomb-Hood for her usual forensic approach to editing the text, Nick Hill for the

maps, Jane Thomas for proofreading and Bryn Thomas, as always, for keeping me busy.

A request

The authors and publisher have tried to ensure that this guide is as accurate and up to date

as possible. However, things change even on these well-worn routes. If you notice any

changes or omissions that should be included in the next edition of this guide, please email

or write to Trailblazer (address above). You can also contact us via the Trailblazer website

(: www.trailblazer-guides.com). Those persons making a significant contribution will be

rewarded with a free copy of the next edition.

Warning – hill walking can be dangerous

Please read the notes on when to go (pp14-16) and health & safety (pp72-4). Every effort

has been made by the author and publisher to ensure that the information contained herein

is as accurate and up to date as possible. However, they are unable to accept responsibility

for any inconvenience, loss or injury sustained by anyone as a result of the advice and infor-

mation given in this guide.

Updated information will shortly be available on: : www.trailblazer-guides.com

Photos – Front cover and this page: It’s not just walkers who love the Cleveland Hills!

Here a paraglider rides the currents above Alex Falconer Seat, near the Lordstones Café.

Previous page: ‘Pawsing’ on the cliffs to admire the view between Staithes and Port

Mulgrave. Overleaf: The beach north of Skinningrove, below Cattersty Cliffs, is vast

and often empty.

Printed in China; print production by D’Print (% +65-6581 3832), Singapore

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TRAILBLAZER PUBLICATIONS

HENRY S T E D M A NHENRY STEDMAN

PLANNING – PLACES TO STAY – PLACES TO EAT

48 large-scale walking maps and guides to

27 towns and villages

NORTH YORK MOORS – HELMSLEY TO FILEY

Cleveland

Way

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INTRODUCTION

History of the path 7 – How difficult is the path? 12 – How long do

you need? 13 – When to go 14

PART 1: PLANNING YOUR WALK

Practical information for the walker

Route-finding 17 – GPS 17 – Accommodation 19 – Food and

drink 24 – Money 26 – Internet access & wi-fi 27 – Other

services 27 – Walking companies 27 – Information for foreign

visitors 28 – Walking with a dog 31

Budgeting 31

Itineraries

Which direction? 33 – Suggested itineraries 33 – Village and town

facilities 34 – The best day loops and weekend walks 37

What to take

Packing light 39 – How to carry your luggage 39 – Footwear 40

Clothing 41 – Toiletries 42 – First-aid kit 42 – General items 42

Sleeping bag and camping gear 43 – Money 43 – Maps 43

Recommended reading 45 – Sources of further information 46

Getting to and from the Cleveland Way

Getting to Britain 48 – National transport 48 – Getting to and from

Helmsley & Filey 50 – Local transport 51 – Bus services table 52

PART 2: THE ENVIRONMENT & NATURE

Conserving the Cleveland Way 55

Geology 57

Flora and fauna 50

PART 3: MINIMUM IMPACT & SAFETY

Minimum impact walking

Environmental impact 68 – Countryside code 70 – Access 71

Outdoor safety

Avoidance of hazards 72 – Dealing with an accident 72 – Blisters 73

Hypothermia 73 – Hyperthermia 73 – Sunburn 74 – Personal safety 74

Contents

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PART 4: ROUTE GUIDE AND MAPS

Using this guide

Trail maps 75 – Accommodation 76

Helmsley 77

Helmsley to Sutton Bank 82

(Kilburn 88, Sutton Bank 88)

Sutton Bank to Osmotherley 89

(Boltby 89, Osmotherley 95)

Osmotherley to Clay Bank Top 98

(Urra & Chop Gate 104, Great Broughton 105)

Clay Bank Top to Kildale 105

(Kildale 109)

Kildale to Saltburn-by-the-Sea 110

(Newton-under-Roseberry 111, Slapewath 114,

Skelton Green 116, Skelton 118, Saltburn-by-the-Sea 119)

Saltburn-by-the-Sea to Runswick Bay 123

(Skinningrove 126, Staithes 127, Port Mulgrave 134

Hinderwell 134, Runswick Bank Top 137)

Runswick Bay to Robin Hood’s Bay 138

(Lythe 138, Sandsend 140, Whitby 142, Robin Hood’s Bay 150)

Robin Hood’s Bay to Scarborough 156

(Ravenscar 158, Scarborough 164)

Scarborough to Filey 172

(Cayton Bay 172, Filey 178)

APPENDICES

A: GPS waypoints 182

B: Walking with a dog 183

C: Map key 185

INDEX 186

OVERVIEW MAPS 193

Contents

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ABOUT THIS BOOK

This guidebook contains all the information you need. The hard work

has been done for you so you can plan your trip without having to

consult numerous websites and other books and maps. When you’re

all packed and ready to go, there’s comprehensive public transport

information to get you to and from the trail and detailed maps

(1:20,000) to help you find your way along it. The guide includes:

l All standards of accommodation with reviews of campsites, bunk-

houses, hostels, B&Bs, guesthouses and hotels

l Walking companies if you want an organised or self-guided tour

and baggage-carrying services if you just want your luggage carried

l Itineraries for all levels of walkers

l Answers to all your questions: when to go, degree of difficulty,

what to pack, and the approximate cost of the whole walking holiday

l Walking times in both directions

l Cafés, pubs, takeaways, restaurants and shops for supplies

l Rail, bus and taxi information for all villages and towns along the path

l Street maps of the 10 main towns and villages on or near the path

l Historical, cultural and geographical background information

l GPS waypoints

About this book

❏ MINIMUM IMPACT FOR MAXIMUM INSIGHT

Man has suffered in his separation from the soil and from other living

creatures ... and as yet he must still, for security, look long at some por-

tion of the earth as it was before he tampered with it.

Gavin Maxwell, Ring of Bright Water, 1960

Why is walking in wild and solitary places so satisfying? Partly it is the

sheer physical pleasure: sometimes pitting one’s strength against the

elements and the lie of the land. The beauty and wonder of the natural

world and the fresh air restore our sense of proportion and the stresses

and strains of everyday life slip away. Whatever the character of the

countryside, walking in it benefits us mentally and physically, inducing

a sense of well-being, an enrichment of life and an enhanced awareness

of what lies around us.

All this the countryside gives us and the least we can do is to safe-

guard it by supporting rural economies, local businesses, and low-impact

methods of farming and land-management, and by using environmentally

sensitive forms of transport – walking being pre-eminent.

In this book there is a detailed chapter on the wildlife and conserva-

tion of the region and a chapter on minimum-impact walking, with ideas

on how to tread lightly in this fragile environment; by following its prin-

ciples we can help to preserve our natural heritage for future generations.

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To those who’ve never walked the Cleveland Way before, it might

seem slightly strange to discover that this was one of the first long-

distance paths to be designated a ‘National Trail’, having been

bestowed that honour way back in 1969. Only the massive Pennine

Way that strides confidently through the very centre of Britain is

older, having been designated a National Trail four years previously.

How curious, you may think, that those good people at the

National Trail office should follow up the mighty Pennine Way with

what is, by comparison, a rather diminutive, horseshoe-shaped path

huddled around one small corner of England. At 107.4 miles

(172.9km), its length is less

than half that of the Pennine

Way (268 miles/431km).

What’s more, the Cleveland

Way is confined solely to one country, England, and indeed one

county, Yorkshire, whereas the Pennine Way crosses Derbyshire,

Yorkshire and Northumberland before breaching the border into

Scotland; it also climbs to only 454m (1489ft) above sea level at its

highest point at Urra Moor, as opposed to 893m at Cross Fell on the

Pennine Way; focuses on only one National Park, the North

Yorkshire Moors, where the Pennine Way visits four; and even today

is visited by only ten thousand people per year – as opposed to the

Introduction

INTRODUCTION

The Cleveland Way was the

second path in the country to

be designated a National Trail

Above: The picture-perfect village of Staithes (see p131) rises up the cliffside

from the little port.

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Pennine Way’s fifteen thousand-plus. Given all the above, you may find your-

self wondering why anybody would choose to walk the Cleveland Way at all.

Because if the Pennine Way is a path that follows the very backbone of England,

the Cleveland Way could be seen, geographically speaking, as nothing more

than a stroll around its armpit.

And then you take your first few steps on the path itself – and it all begins

to makes sense.

To paraphrase that old footballing cliché, this is a walk of two halves. The

first section, from Helmsley to Saltburn, is 57 miles long and can be charac-

terised by some breathtaking yomping through the windswept, heather-smoth-

8 Introduction

________________________________________________________

I N T R O D U C T I O N

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one would want to walk the Cleveland Way; instead, maybe, it’s time we start-

ed asking the exact opposite: Why wouldn’t you want to?

How difficult is the path?

We think that the Cleveland Way is, in comparison with other long-distance

trails in England, of a fairly medi-

um difficulty. There’s no problem

with route finding – the path, like

all national trails, is well fur-

nished with signposts and there’s

only one place, through the pine

plantations on the way down to

Slapewath, where the signage can

be confusing and people do some-

times get lost. Nor is it particular-

ly remote. Sure, there are a couple

of lonely sections on the first half

of the walk, but in general there

are enough B&Bs, campsites and

eateries along the way to ensure

that you’re never too far from

civilisation (and help, should you

need it). Nor, for that matter, is it

particularly long: at 107.4 miles,

it’s the ninth longest of the fifteen

national trails.

So the difficulty really lies only

with the difficulty of the walking

itself and how steep the gradients

are. And yes, in places during the

first half of the trail on the moors,

such as the rollercoaster section

between Osmotherley and Clay

Bank Top, and Kildale and

Slapewath, there are some particularly steep climbs that will leave you puffed-

out and jelly-legged at the end – not to mention some equally steep descents too.

And as for the second half of the walk, well coastal walking is usually a little

bit arduous and the latter half of

the Cleveland Way is no excep-

tion and includes one of the

stiffest climbs on the whole walk,

from Skinningrove at sea level to the top of Boulby Cliff, 203m (666ft) above

it. But overall those of an average fitness, with a reasonable level of determina-

12 How difficult is the path?

________________________________________________________

I N T R O D U C T I O N

The impressive ruins of Helmsley Castle are just

a few hundred yards from the start of the trail.

Made it! Posing for photos on the commemora-

tive bench at the end of the Cleveland Way

See pp36-7 for some

suggested itineraries covering

different walking speeds

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tion, stamina and luck, should finish the trail

with little difficulty.

How long do you need?

Assuming you work, and this work takes place

from a Monday to Friday, by taking a week off,

and including in this vacation the weekends at

either end (ie making nine days in total), you’ll

find that the Cleveland Way can be started and

finished in one trip. This includes not only all

the walking (assuming a reasonable 13-15

miles per day) but also a half-day or more to

get to the trail at the start, and back home again

at the end – with possibly enough time to take

a break here and there on the trail too. Of

course there’s nothing to stop you going faster

than this and finishing it all within seven days;

but we think eight or nine days allows you

more time to appreciate what you’re seeing and to prevent it from being more

than just an exhausting race to the finish.

How long do you need? 13

________________________________________________________

I N T R O D U C T I O N

Above: The famous Whalebone

Arch on Whitby’s West Cliff is

actually the third set of bones to

stand here, the first having been

erected in 1853.

Below: The port at Whitby.

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of daylight. This is when the path is at its busiest and the seaside resorts such as

Scarborough can suffocate with sun-seekers. Fortunately, the trail itself remains

fairly quiet, with most people preferring to sit on the beach and develop their

melanomas than stroll around the nearby cliffs, so you’ll soon leave the hordes

behind.

Autumn

Many connoisseurs consider autumn, especially early autumn, the best time of

year for walking. September and October can be lovely months to get out on

the trail, especially when the leaves begin to turn. That said, although the air tem-

perature usually remains relatively mild, October can see the first frosts, and rain

is an ever-present threat. The days are also getting quite short now, and once day-

light saving time ends at the end of October, night falls at about 5.30pm.

Winter

Only the very hardiest of souls will attempt the Cleveland Way in winter. The

days are shorter and you’ll need to be at your destination by 4.30pm through

November to March or risk walking in the dark. Cold weather, wind and driv-

ing rain are not the best recipe for a day’s walking, although a crisp winter

morning takes a lot of beating. Most campsites and some B&Bs and tearooms

shut over winter, too, so if you are determined to walk at this time you need to

plan carefully – because you really

don’t want to be sleeping rough on

the moors in winter.

DAYLIGHT HOURS

When walking you should always

keep half an eye on how much

daylight you’ve got left. Less of an

issue in the height of summer, of

course: in mid to late June the sun

rises at around 4.30am and doesn’t

set until after 9.40pm, plus you get

almost an hour’s twilight after that, which should give you plenty of time to do

as much walking as your little legs can manage in one day. But in autumn, win-

ter or early spring, it’s a different story and it will, of course, not be possible to

cover as many miles or to be out for as long as you would in the summer. The

table (above) gives the sunrise and sunset times for the middle of each month at

latitude 54.5º North, which runs through the North York Moors, giving a rea-

sonably accurate picture for daylight along the Cleveland Way.

16 When to go

________________________________________________________

I N T R O D U C T I O N

JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC

Hours of daylight – Helmsley

10pm

8pm

6pm

4pm

2pm

12pm

10am

8am

6am

4am

SUNRISE

S

UNSET

★

________________________________________________________

Colour photos (following pages)

l Opposite – Top: ‘The Circle’ by Richard Farrington, at the top of the climb out of Saltburn.

Bottom: The Repus sculpture (see p124), right by the path on the seafront at Skinningrove.

l Overleaf, clockwise from top: 1. Taking a breather at the summit of Roseberry Topping.

2. View from the Alex Falconer Seat (see p102). 3. Saltburn Viaduct. 4. Ancient standing stone

near Urra Moor. 5. Captain Cook Monument (see p112). 6. Stepping stones near Noodle Hill.

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Baggage transfer and accommodation booking

● Brigantes Walking Holidays (☎ 01756-770402, : brigantesenglishwalks

.com; North Yorkshire) run a family operated baggage-transfer service which

support trails across the north of England. They charge from £8.50 to £18 per

person (minimum two people, each with one bag of no more than 17kg),

depending on your itinerary and the number of people in your party. For their

self-guided walks see p30.

● Sherpa Van (baggage line ☎ 01748-826917, : sherpavan.com; North

Yorkshire) is a national organisation that runs a service from April to mid

28 Practical information for the walker

________________________________________________________

P L A N N I N G Y O U R W A L K

o Information for foreign visitors

● Currency The British pound (£) comes in notes of £50, £20, £10 and £5, and coins

of £2 and £1. The pound is divided into 100 pence (usually referred to as ‘p’, pro-

nounced ‘pee’) which come in silver coins of 50p, 20p 10p and 5p and copper coins

of 2p and 1p.

● Money Up-to-date exchange rates can be found at : xe.com/currencyconverter

and at some post offices, or at any bank or travel agent.

● Business hours Most shops and main post offices are open at least from Monday

to Friday 9am-5pm and Saturday 9am-12.30pm. Many choose longer hours and some

open on Sundays as well. However, some also close early one day a week, often

Wednesday or Thursday. Banks are usually open 10am-4pm Monday to Friday.

Pub opening hours have become more flexible – up to 24 hours a day seven days

a week – so each pub may have different times. However, most pubs on the Cleveland

Way, save for those in Scarborough and Whitby, continue to follow the traditional

Monday to Saturday 11am to 11pm, Sunday to 10.30pm, and some still close in the

afternoon, particularly in the winter months.

● National (Bank) holidays Most offices are shut on 1 January, Good Friday and

Easter Monday (March/April), the first and last Monday in May, the last Monday in

August, 25 December and 26 December. Some shops and museums/galleries are also

closed but pubs, restaurants and cafés are often open.

● School holidays School holiday periods in England are generally as follows: a

one-week break late October, two weeks around Christmas, a week mid February,

two weeks around Easter, a week in late May and from late July to early September.

● Documents If you are a member of a National Trust organisation in your country

bring your membership card as you should be entitled to free entry to National Trust

properties and sites in the UK. See also the box on p56.

● Travel/medical insurance The European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) entitles

EU nationals (on production of the EHIC card) to necessary medical treatment under

the UK’s National Health Service while on a temporary visit here. However, this is

not a substitute for proper medical cover on your travel insurance for unforeseen bills

and for getting you home should that be necessary. Also consider cover for loss or

theft of personal belongings, especially if you’re camping or staying in hostels, as

there will be times when you’ll have to leave your luggage unattended. If you’re

walking the Cleveland Way any time after March 2019 do check, too, what the latest

rules are, for the UK will have left the EU that March and you can expect some

changes to the legislation.

● Weights and measures Britain’s illogical mix of metric and imperial measures is

undoubtedly a source of confusion for many visitors. For example, in Britain milk

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Village and town facilities table 35

________________________________________________________

P L A N N I N G Y O U R W A L K

TOWN FACILITIES

Eating Food Campsite/ Hostels B&B-style Place name

Place Store Camp/bunk YHA accommodation (places in bold

✔ = one place barn (CB)/ ✔ = one place are directly

✔✔= two Camping pod ✔✔= two on the

✔✔✔= three + or glamping (P) ✔✔✔= three + Cleveland Way)

_____

✔✔✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔✔✔ Helmsley

✔ Riveaulx Abbey

✔ Scawton

Cold Kirby

✔ ✔✔✔ Kilburn

✔ ✔ Sutton Bank

✔ Boltby

✔ ✔ ✔ High Paradise Farm

✔✔✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔✔✔ Osmotherley

✔ ✔ ✔/P ✔ * Carlton Bank

Clay Bank Top

CB ✔ Urra

✔ ✔ ✔✔ Chop Gate

✔✔ ✔ ✔✔ Great Broughton

✔ ✔/CB ✔ Kildale

✔ ✔ Newton-under-Roseberry

✔ ✔ ✔ Slapewath

✔✔ ✔ Skelton Green

✔✔✔ ✔ ✔ Skelton

✔✔✔ ✔ ✔✔✔ Saltburn-by-the-Sea

✔✔ ✔ ✔ Skinningrove

✔✔✔ ✔ ✔✔✔ Staithes

✔(limited days) Port Mulgrave

✔✔✔ ✔/P ✔✔ Hinderwell

✔✔ ✔ ✔✔✔Runswick Bay/Bank Top

✔ ✔ ✔/P ✔ Lythe

✔✔✔ ✔ ✔✔✔ Sandsend

✔✔✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔✔✔ Whitby

✔✔✔ ✔ ✔/P ✔✔✔ Robin Hood’s Bay

✔ ✔ Boggle Hole

✔✔✔ ✔ ✔✔✔ Ravenscar

✔ ✔ Hayburn Wyke

✔✔✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔✔✔ Scarborough

✔ ✔ Cayton Bay

✔✔✔ ✔ ✔ ✔✔✔ Filey

* 40 minutes along the trail east of Carlton Bank, at Breakhills (see p102)

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to risk the extra danger to their ankles in order to achieve this. We just don’t

agree, that’s all.

Socks

As with all outdoor gear, the humble sock has not escaped the technological

revolution (with prices to match) so invest in two non-cotton pairs designed for

walking. Although cushioning is desirable, avoid anything too thick which will

reduce stability. A correctly sized boot with an anatomically shaped insole gives

a sure-footed feel. As well as the obvious olfactory benefits, frequent washing

will maintain the socks’ springiness.

CLOTHES

Tops

The proven system of layering is a good principle to follow. A quick-drying

synthetic – or a less odiferous merino wool – base layer transports sweat away

from your skin; the mid-layer, typically a fleece or woollen jumper, keeps you

warm; and when needed, an outer ‘shell’ or jacket protects you from the wind

and rain.

Maintaining a comfortable temperature in all conditions is the key, and it

pays to avoid getting too hot or cold; both can prematurely tire you. Trudging

out of Scarborough on a sunny summer’s day will soon have you down to your

base layer, but sitting on Roseberry Topping when the wind gets up can freeze

you to the marrow. Just be aware of how hot or cold you’re feeling and adjust

your clothing accordingly.

Avoid cotton; as well as being slow to dry, when soaked it saps away body

heat but not the moisture – and you’ll often be wet from sweat if not rain. Take

a change of base layers (including underwear), a fleece suited to the season,

and the best breathable waterproof you can afford. Soft shells are an alterna-

tive to walking in rustling nylon waterproofs when it’s windy but not raining.

It’s useful to have a spare set of clothing so you’re able to get changed

should you arrive chilled at your destination. Once indoors your body heat will

quickly dry out a synthetic fleece and nylon leggings. However, always make

sure you have a dry base layer in case you or someone you’re with goes down

with hypothermia; this is why a quality waterproof is important.

Leg wear

Your legs are doing all the work and don’t generally get cold so your trousers

can be light which will also mean quick-drying. Although they lack useful pock-

ets, many 21st-century walkers find leg-hugging cycling polyester leggings

very comfortable (eg Ron Hill Tracksters). If like me, however, you remain

firmly fixed somewhere in the mid- to late 20th century – or the thought of

catching yourself in the mirror in a pair of lurid lycra legwear is simply too

ghastly to contemplate – then poly-cotton or microfibre trousers are excellent.

Denim jeans are cotton and a disaster when wet.

If the weather’s good, shorts are very agreeable to walk in, leaving a light

pair of trousers clean for the evenings. It also means your lower legs get muddy

Footwear 41

________________________________________________________

P L A N N I N G Y O U R W A L K

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Local bus services 53

________________________________________________________

P L A N N I N G Y O U R W A L K

28A Arriva Middlesbrough to Stokesley via Great Ayton, Mon-Sat 1/hr

X93 Arriva Middlesbrough to Scarborough via Guisborough, Slapewath (Charltons), Whitby & Robin Hood’s Bay,

summer Mon-Sat approx 1/hr, Sun 10/day but mostly in the morning (plus Whitby to Scarborough daily 2/hr),

winter hours more limited

707 R & C Redcar circular route to Guisborough, Slapewath (Charltons), Lingdale, Skelton & Skelton Green,

Mon-Sat 2/day plus 1/day from Guisborough but evening only

708 R & C Liverton Mine to Saltburn circular route via Loftus, Skinningrove & Skelton, Mon-Sat 3/day but evening only

752 R & C Skelton to Twizzlegill View circular route via Skinningrove, Loftus & Easington, Mon-Fri 3-4/day

3 Arriva Lingdale to Redcar via Skelton Green, Skelton, Saltburn & Marske, Sun 1/hr

X3 Arriva Lingdale to Middlesbrough via Skelton Green, Skelton, Saltburn & Redcar, Mon-Sat 1/hr,

X3A Arriva North Skelton to Middlesbrough via Saltburn, Marske & Redcar, Mon-Sat 1/hr

X4 Arriva Middlesbrough to Whitby via Redcar, Marske, Saltburn, Brotton, Loftus, Easington, Boulby, Staithes, Hinderwell,

Runswick Bay, Lythe & Sandsend, Mon-Sat 2/hr, Sun 1/hr plus 1/hr Redcar to Whitby

840 YC Leeds to Whitby via York, Pickering & Thornton-le-Dale, Mon-Sat 4/day plus 3/day to Thornton-le-Dale, Sun 4/day

115 EYMS# Ravenscar to Scarborough, Mon-Sat 2/day

X21 EYMS# Hull to Scarborough via Beverley, Bridlington & Filey, late May to mid Sep, daily 1/day

12/13 EYMS# Bridlington to Scarborough via Filey & Cayton Bay, early May to early Nov, daily 2/hr

555 SS (Filey Flyer) Scarborough to Filey via Cayton Bay, Mon-Sat 7-8/day

843 Transdev Leeds to Scarborough via York & Malton, Mon-Sat 10/day, Sun 8/day

X43 Transdev Leeds to Bridlington via York, Scarborough & Filey, early July to mid Sep 1/day

X40 Transdev Leeds to Whitby via York & Pickering, early July to mid Sep 1/day

Contacts Abbott’s (Abbott’s of Leeming; ☎ 01677-424987, : abbottscoaches.co.uk); Arriva (: arrivabus.co.uk/north-east); EYMS (East

Yorkshire Motor Services; ☎ 01482-592929, : eyms.co.uk); Moorsbus (: moorsbus.org); NYCC (North Yorkshire County Council; :

northyorks.gov.uk/bus-timetables); R&C (Redcar & Cleveland; : redcar-cleveland.gov.uk; click on ‘P’ for public transport); SS (Shoreline

Suncruisers; ☎ 01723-360969, : shorelinesuncruisers.co.uk); Transdev (: yorkbus.co.uk); YC (Yorkshire Coastliner; : yorkbus.co.uk)

Notes:

* Stephensons of Easingwold is part of TransDev York Bus

# EYMS is the parent company of Scarborough & District (S&D); some buses may say Scarborough & District and some East Yorkshire.

Cleveland-1 01-03_Prelims Template 21/08/2018 22:25 Page 37

Conserving the Cleveland Way

With a population of over 62 million, Britain is an overcrowded island,

and England is the most densely populated part of it. As such, the

English countryside has suffered – and continues to suffer – a great

deal of pressure from both over-population and the activities of an ever

more industrialised world. Thankfully, there is some enlightened leg-

islation to protect the surviving pockets of forest and heathland.

In these enlightened times when environmental issues are quite

rightly given more precedence, many endangered species, such as the

otter, have increased in number thanks to the active work of voluntary

conservation bodies. There are other reasons to be optimistic. The

environment is no longer the least important issue in party politics and

this reflects the opinions of everyday people who are concerned about

issues such as conservation on both a global and local scale.

GOVERNMENT AGENCIES AND SCHEMES

Natural England

Natural England (: gov.uk/government/organisations/natural-eng

land) is responsible for enhancing biodiversity, landscape and

wildlife in rural, urban, coastal and marine areas; promoting access,

recreation and public well-being; and contributing to the way natural

resources are managed. One of its roles is to identify, establish and

manage: national trails, national parks, areas of outstanding natural

beauty (AONBs), national nature reserves (NNRs), sites of special

scientific interest (SSSIs), and special areas of conservation (SACs)

and to enforce regulations relating to these sites.

The highest level of landscape protection is the designation of

land as a national park which recognises the national importance of

an area in terms of landscape, biodiversity and as a recreational

resource. At the time of writing there were nine national parks in

England (plus the Norfolk and Suffolk Broads which enjoy equivalent

status and protection). Of interest to the Cleveland Way walker is, of

course, the North York Moors National Park (: northyork moors

.org.uk), around which the path skirts. This designation does not sig-

nify national ownership and these are not uninhabited wildernesses,

THE ENVIRONMENT &

NATURE

2

Cleveland-1 01-03_Prelims Template 21/08/2018 22:25 Page 39

C4 Common flora

________________________________________________________

Common Dog Violet

Viola riviniana

Red Campion

Silene dioica

Early Purple Orchid

Orchis mascula

Bell Heather

Erica cinerea

Germander Speedwell

Veronica chamaedrys

Heather (Ling)

Calluna vulgaris

Harebell

Campanula rotundifolia

Herb-Robert

Geranium robertianum

Foxglove

Digitalis purpurea

Travellers’ Joy

Clematis vitalba

Forget-me-not

Myosotis arvensis

Dog Rose

Rosa canina

Cleveland-1_Colour 2 Birds & Flowers_Flowers 001-004_25219 23/8/18 5:45 pm Page 4

Minimum impact walking

ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT

A walking holiday in itself is an environmentally friendly approach

to tourism. The following are some ideas on how you can go a few

steps further in helping to minimise your impact on the environment

while walking the Cleveland Way.

Use public transport whenever possible

The public transport network serving the Cleveland Way is, admit-

tedly, not extensive, though most places have at least some sort of

bus service and once you reach the coast you’ll find getting around

much easier. Public transport is always preferable to using private

cars as it benefits everyone: visitors, locals and the environment.

Never leave litter

‘Pack it in, pack it out’. Leaving litter is antisocial so carry a degrad-

able plastic bag for all your rubbish, organic or otherwise and even

other people’s too, and pop it in a bin in the next village. Or better

still, reduce the amount of litter you take with you by getting rid of

packaging in advance.

● Is it OK if it’s biodegradable? Not really. Apple cores, banana

skins, orange peel and the like are unsightly, encourage flies, ants

and wasps, and ruin a picnic spot for others; they can also take

months to decompose. Either bury them or take them away with you.

Buy local

Look and ask for local produce to buy and eat. Not only does this cut

down on the amount of pollution and congestion that the transporta-

tion of food creates, so-called ‘food miles’, it also ensures that you

are supporting local farmers and producers.

Erosion

● Stay on the main trail The effect of your footsteps may seem

minuscule but when they’re multiplied by several thousand walkers

each year they become rather more significant. Avoid taking shortcuts,

MINIMUM IMPACT &

OUTDOOR SAFETY

3

Cleveland-1 01-03_Prelims Template 21/08/2018 22:25 Page 52

Using this guide

This trail guide has been described from west to east and divided into

10 stages. Each stage is approximately a day’s walk in length though

that doesn’t mean you have to divide the trail up this way; you can

plan your walk however you wish, of course, and much will depend

on the speed you walk at, your interests and where you stay. See

pp36-7 for some suggested itineraries.

To enable you to plan your own itinerary, practical information

is presented clearly on the trail maps. This includes walking times for

both directions, places to stay, camp and eat, as well as shops where

you can buy supplies. Further service details are given in the text

under the entry for each place. For an overview of this information

see the village and town facilities table on pp34-5.

For map profiles see the colour pages at the end of the book.

TRAIL MAPS

Scale and walking times

The trail maps are to a scale of 1:20,000 (1cm = 200m; 3

1

/8 inches =

one mile). Walking times are given along the side of each map and

the arrow shows the direction to which the time refers. Black trian-

gles indicate the points between which the times have been taken.

See note on walking times in box below. The times are there as an

aid to planning your walk – not to judge your ability. There are many

variables which will affect your speed including weather, ground

conditions, whether you are walking alone or with company and how

interesting you find parts of the landscape.

ROUTE GUIDE & MAPS

4

o Important note – walking times

Unless otherwise specified, all times in this book refer only to the time

spent walking. You will need to add 20-30% to allow for rests, photog-

raphy, checking the map, drinking water etc. When planning the day’s

hike count on 5-7 hours’ actual walking.

To research this book I walked alone so kept a faster pace than if I

were walking with companions. Most health and fitness professionals

calculate the average walking speed for humans to be 2-3mph/3-5kph.

After a few days you will hopefully know how fast you walk compared

to the time bars and can plan your day more accurately.

Cleveland-1 04a_Layout 1 21/08/2018 22:13 Page 1

Up or down?

Other than when on a track or bridleway the trail is shown as a dotted line. An

arrow across the trail indicates the slope; two arrows show that it is steep. Note

that the arrow points towards the higher part of the trail. If, for example, you are

walking from A (at 80m) to B (at 200m) and the trail between the two is short

and steep, it would be shown thus: A- – – – >>- – – -B. Reversed arrow heads

indicate a downward gradient.

Other features

Features marked on the maps are pertinent to navigation but, to avoid clutter,

not all features have been marked.

ACCOMMODATION

The accommodation included in the book is either on the trail or within easy

reach of it and details of each place are given in the accompanying text. The

number and type of rooms is given: S = single bed, D = double bed, T = twin

beds (two single beds), Tr/Qd = rooms that can sleep three/four people, but note

that this often means two people sharing a double bed and the other(s) in bunk

beds; however, these rooms can also be used as doubles or twins. Some places

have rooms that can sleep more than two people but only children, not adults.

Rates given are per person (pp) based on two people sharing a room for a

one-night stay – rates are almost always discounted for a longer stay. Where a

single room (sgl) is available the rate for that is quoted if different from the per

person rate. The rate for single occupancy (sgl occ) of a double/twin is general-

ly higher, and the per person rate for three or more sharing a room may be lower.

Unless specified, rates are for B&B. At some places the only option is a room

rate; this will be the same whether one or two people share. Don’t bank on

negotiating a discount in the off-season; year-round demand from business trav-

ellers, holidaymakers and weekenders for accommodation along and near the

Cleveland Way keeps prices high. Note that many places, particularly hotels and

YHA hostels, have rates that vary from one night to the next according to

demand; in this case we’ve just asked the proprietors to provide us with an

approximate rate. Note, too, that some hotels have different rates advertised on

booking agency websites. In this case, it’s usually best to contact the hotel or

B&B as it’s often cheaper to book direct with them. See also pp22-3.

The text also mentions whether a bath is available (

) in, or for, at least

one room; and whether dogs (

) are welcome. Most places will not take more

than one dog in a room and also only accept them subject to prior arrangement.

Some make an additional charge (usually per night but occasionally per stay)

while others may require a deposit which is refundable if the dog doesn’t make

a mess. See also pp183-5.

Some owners are prepared to collect walkers from points on the trail where

the accommodation is a mile or two off the path and take them back the next

morning – it is worth asking if this is possible when booking. Often this service

is free but any offer to pay petrol money will generally be appreciated.

76 Using this guide

________________________________________________________

R O U T E G U I D E A N D M A P S

Cleveland-1 04a_Layout 1 21/08/2018 22:13 Page 2

More impressive, perhaps, is the carving on the next stone which bears a

human face on its eastern side (Map 16).

A little more easy walking will bring you to the former railway junction

known as Bloworth Crossing, where the old Rosedale Ironstone Railway meets

the Rudland Rigg Road. It is also here that you bid a fond farewell to those

Coast to Coast Path interlopers with whom you’ve been sharing the trail; they’ll

be taking a much more direct route eastwards to the coast while you’ll be mean-

dering northwards now, sharing a path instead with cyclists, horse-riders and

dirt bikes who are all allowed to use this sandy track.

106 Clay Bank Top to Kildale

________________________________________________________

R O U T E G U I D E A N D M A P S

35–45 MINS FROM CLAY BANK TOP (MAP 14)

TRIG POINT

30–40 MINS TO CLAY BANK TOP (MAP 14)

T

RIG POINT

Cleveland-1 04a_Layout 1 21/08/2018 22:13 Page 32

Map 16, Bloworth Crossing 107

________________________________________________________

R O U T E G U I D E A N D M A P S

20–30 MINS FROM TRIG POINT (MAP 15) BLOWORTH CROSSING

BLOWORTH CROSSING

20–30 MINS TO TRIG POINT (MAP 15)

Cleveland-1 04a_Layout 1 21/08/2018 22:13 Page 33

Soon after leaving Staithes the Cleveland Way follows the newly estab-

lished England Coast Path rather than its original, more direct course through

the horse fields. It’s not long before you find yourself walking past the iron-

mongery on the outskirts of Port Mulgrave, all of which hint at this sleepy ham-

let’s former importance.

134 Saltburn-by-the-Sea to Runswick Bay

________________________________________________________

R O U T E G U I D E A N D M A P S

PORT MULGRAVE [MAP 30]

It may come as something of a surprise to

find that the only place on the Cleveland

Way that has the word ‘port’ in its title actu-

ally stands on the cliffs well above the sea.

But there’s a reason for this. The port actu-

ally does still exist, or at least the remnants

of it, at the foot of the cliffs immediately

below the Cleveland Way. But the ironstone

mine that was the reason for Port

Mulgrave’s existence was abandoned when

the mine was exhausted; and though the

port that served the mine was still used to

ship ironstone from nearby Grinkle Mine

up until 1917, it too was abandoned when

Grinkle was connected to the

Middlesbrough to Whitby rail line (a sec-

tion of which you’ve already seen on this

walk). Today, only a few old bits of iron-

mongery provide any clue as to the port’s

former importance.

The path down to the port is officially

closed and, though there’s nothing to stop

you taking it, you will have to scramble

using ropes that have been attached to the

steep bank in order to get to the bottom. Do

so and you’ll find that several locals have

built beach shacks (one of them even has

two storeys!) down near the shore. This is

also one of the best beaches to look for fos-

sils – largely, perhaps, because of the lack

of competitors here.

Whether you choose to risk your neck

on the path down to the port is your business

but one place we do urge you to visit is The

Ship (% 01947-840303; 1D/1D or T, all en

suite;

WI-FI;  tearoom only). You can

imagine Sunday supplements would work

themselves up into a right lather over this

place and justifiably so. Once a pub, at the

time of writing it had just been taken over

by a new proprietor and in addition to the

simple but exquisite little tearoom it also

offers B&B.

B&B costs from £42.50pp (sgl occ

from £45); a single room is also available

as long as one of the other rooms has been

booked, so this would be a good place for

three people walking together.

The tea room is open at weekends (Sat

& Sun noon-6pm) but the new owner hopes

to open daily in the peak season; the details

will be put on signs on the trail so keep an

eye open. The menu includes traybake

cakes (£2.45-3.75), toasted tea cake (£2.90-

3.75), soups and sandwiches (from £3.95).

They are licensed so can sell alcohol, but

only serve bottled drinks. However, they

also have homemade lemonade (£1.75); if

it is anything like as good as that made by

the previous owners it will be worth com-

ing here for.

If I have a complaint to make it’s that

it’s just too close to Staithes and thus many

people will decide against visiting or stay-

ing here.

HINDERWELL [off MAP 30]

Though there’s nothing wrong with this

simple settlement stretched out along the

A174, there would be little reason to visit

Hinderwell if it wasn’t for Serenity

Camping (% 01947-841122, : serenity

camping.co.uk;

WI-FI; ; Mar-Oct), the

nearest campsite to Staithes. The site boasts

a ‘Wi-Fi & Information Cabin’ (open 24hrs)

and you can charge your phone at reception.

Backpackers are charged £10pp, though

there may be a 2-night minimum stay in

July and August and at weekends at other

times. Glamping in a shepherd’s hut (£60-

70 sleeping up to two), bell tent (£60-90

sleeping up to two) and even a ‘potting

shed’ (described as a ‘boutique two-room

Cleveland-1 04a_Layout 1 21/08/2018 22:13 Page 60

Map 30, Port Mulgrave & Runswick Bay 135

________________________________________________________

R O U T E G U I D E A N D M A P S

STEPS BY CLIFFEMOUNT HOTEL

70-80 MINS FROM TURNING ONTO CHURCH ST, STAITHES

STEPS BY CLIFFEMOUNT HOTEL

55-65 MINS TO TURNING OFF CHURCH ST, STAITHES

25–30 MINS FROM TURN-OFF FROM

BEACH BY SECOND GULLY

(MAP 31)

20–25

MINS TO TURN-OFF FROM

BEACH BY SECOND GULLY

(MAP 31)

Cleveland-1 04a_Layout 1 21/08/2018 22:14 Page 61

168 Scarborough

________________________________________________________

R O U T E G U I D E A N D M A P S

Transport

Scarborough has the best transport links of

any place on the Cleveland Way.

Unfortunately, few of these are near the

trail itself, which means you need to head to

the centre of town and the railway station –

where the bus services stop too – to get

transport to anywhere.

The only buses that go near the

seafront (and thus the trail) are EYMS’s

8/8A and the 109 that travels between

North and South Bay; and while the 8/8A

does indeed go to the railway station, it

takes an awfully long time to get there

(about half an hour from the Sea Life

Centre for example).

The most useful bus service for

Cleveland Way walkers that departs from

Scarborough is Arriva’s X93 to

Middlesbrough. Scarborough also connects

to: Ravenscar (EYMS’s No 115), Filey

(EYMS’s No 12, 13 and X21, and SS’s

555); Leeds (Transdev’s No 843 and the

seasonal X43); and Helmsley (EYMS’s No

128) – the latter would be useful for those

who left their car at the start of the trail. See

box pp52-3 for details.

For destinations further afield there’s

National Express coach No 563 and No

327 (see p51).

Scarborough not only has the busiest

railway station on the Cleveland Way but

also has trains to places where you might

actually want to go including TransPennine

Express’s service to Liverpool Lime St and

Northern’s to Hull (see box p49).

Where to stay

The nearest campsite to Scarborough is

back along the path at Scarborough

Camping & Caravanning Club (Map 43;

% 01723-366212, : campingandcaravan

ningclub.co.uk;

WI-FI; ; Mar/Apr to early

Nov) on Field Lane, about two miles from

the town centre but is best reached from the

path (Map 43). It’s one of the more family-

friendly, facility-filled places (there’s even

a chip shop on site, as well as a well-

stocked shop) but accepts walkers too;

prices start at £8.35pp.

Not too far away from here is YHA

Scarborough (Map 34; % 01723-361176, %

0345-260 2896, : yha.org.uk/hostel/yha-

scarborough or : scarboroughhostelcom

.ipage.com; 46 beds in 4- & 6-bed rooms;

one en suite; Mar-Oct), housed in a 17th-

century former water mill on a quiet river-

bank about 1½ miles from town in

Burniston. It’s certainly one of the simpler

hostels on the path (there’s no wi-fi, for

example), though you’ll still find a self-

catering kitchen and breakfast and packed

lunches are available) and the prices reflect

this, with a dorm bed from just £13pp and

private rooms start from £45 for up to four

sharing. Note that check-in is after 5pm but

then there is 24hr access. This hostel is

independently managed but can only be

booked through the YHA website.

Given how far outside of the town cen-

tre the YHA hostel is, we recommend that

you maybe look to see if the Boat Shed (%

07889-180925, : boatshedhostel.co.uk) is

up and running again, though it is unlikely

their new accommodation will be available

before summer 2020. Just a pebble’s throw

from the beach and path at 22A Quay St,

the place has always had an excellent repu-

tation and when it reopens the owner wants

it to be, in her words, ‘all-singing-and all-

dancing’ with private rooms in addition to

the bunk barn; they may even allow dogs –

most unusual for a hostel.

There are plenty of B&Bs in

Scarborough. Several roads seem to be

dominated by them, including Queen’s

Parade, overlooking North Beach. Here

you’ll find places such as Howdale (%

01723-372696, : howdalehotel.co.uk;

2T/11D, all en suite;

; WI-FI; Apr-end

Sep), at No 121, with rooms for £35-50pp

(sgl occ room rate); amiable Leeway (%

01723-374371, : leewayhotel.co.uk; 3S/

3D/3D or T, all en suite;

WI-FI; Jan-end

Oct), at No 71, one of the few places with

single rooms (£35-40) as well as doubles

and twins (£30-35pp, sgl occ room rate),

some of which have a sea view; and the

pleasant Kimberley Seafront (% 01723-

372734, : kimberleyseafronthotel.co.uk;

5D/1T/2Tr, all en suite;

WI-FI), at No 131,

with B&B from £35pp (sgl occ room rate).

Eastborough is another street where

you’ll find several choices. Popular Palace

Cleveland-2 04b_Layout 1 21/08/2018 22:18 Page 32

Scarborough 169

________________________________________________________

R O U T E G U I D E A N D M A P S

048

0 200m

Railway

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Railway

station

Railway

station

Bus

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Bus

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Bus

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BootsBootsBoots

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Shopping

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(Trespass)

Brunswick

Shopping

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(Trespass)

Brunswick

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(Trespass)

Mountain

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Castle RdCastle RdCastle Rd

Marine DriveMarine DriveMarine Drive

St Mary’s WalkSt Mary’s WalkSt Mary’s Walk

ParadiseParadiseParadise

LongwestgateLongwestgateLongwestgate

StStSt

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Princess StPrincess StPrincess St

CastlegateCastlegateCastlegate

QuayQuayQuay

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James StJames StJames St

North StNorth StNorth St

Queen StQueen StQueen St

Cross StCross StCross St

FriargateFriargateFriargate

Sussex StSussex StSussex St

Aberdeen WalkAberdeen WalkAberdeen Walk

WestboroughWestboroughWestborough

Falconers RdFalconers RdFalconers Rd

WestwoodWestwoodWestwood

NewboroughNewboroughNewborough

EastboroughEastboroughEastborough

Vernon RdVernon RdVernon Rd

Valley Bridge A165Valley Bridge A165Valley Bridge A165

Valley RdValley RdValley Rd

Royal AveRoyal Ave

WestbourneWestbourne

GroveGrove

Esplanade RdEsplanade Rd

Esplanade GardensEsplanade Gardens

Prince of Wales TerracePrince of Wales Terrace

St Martin’s SqSt Martin’s Sq

West StWest St

Carlton TerrCarlton Terr

Ramshill RdRamshill RdRamshill Rd

Dean RdDean RdDean Rd

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Luna

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Luna

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HarbourHarbourHarbour

Scarborough

Lifeboat House

Scarborough

Lifeboat House

Scarborough

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Olympia Leisure ComplexOlympia Leisure ComplexOlympia Leisure Complex

Stairs & Central

Tramway Cliff Lift

Stairs & Central

Tramway Cliff Lift

Stairs & Central

Tramway Cliff Lift

Stephen

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Stephen

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Art Gallery

Scarborough

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Rotunda

Museum

Rotunda

Museum

Rotunda

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Freddie Gilroy

sculpture

Freddie Gilroy

sculpture

Freddie Gilroy

sculpture

To Headlands

Guest House, 1km

To Headlands

Guest House, 1km

To Headlands

Guest House, 1km

To Sealife Centre,

North Bay Miniature Railway

& Old Scalby Mills

To Sealife Centre,

North Bay Miniature Railway

& Old Scalby Mills

To Sealife Centre,

North Bay Miniature Railway

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To The Beaches

B&B, 400m

To The Beaches

B&B, 400m

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222

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Ruins of

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Where to stay

3 Howdale

4 Kimberley Seafront

5 Leeway

6 Tall Storeys B&B

11 Barrington Guest House

12 Palace Hill

19 Premier Inn

20 Travelodge

10 Golden Grid

13 Bayview Coffee House

14 Eastern Paradise

15 Clark’s

16 Scarborough Flyer

17 Cat’s Pyjamas

18 Greensmith & Thackwray

22 Farrer’s Bar & Brasserie

21 Grand Hotel

Scarborough

Where to eat and drink

1 Watermark

2 Oasis

7 Ivy House

8 Anton’s

9 Ask

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178 Filey

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R O U T E G U I D E A N D M A P S

FILEY

Filey has an unusual claim to fame in the

world of walking. There are a few places in

England and Wales where two national

trails meet: Goring in Berkshire and its

neighbour Streatley-on-Thames, for exam-

ple, are visited by both the Ridgeway

national trail and the Thames Path; and the

tiny hamlet of Twice Brewed in

Northumbria is crossed by both the

Hadrian’s Wall and Pennine Way national

trails. But with the arrival of the England

Coast Path, Filey is the first place where

three paths meet.

We like the fact that Filey holds such

a unique position, especially as the town is

such an unassuming place. Less gaudy,

less attention-seeking, less ‘shouty’ than

its noisy neighbour to the north, Filey is

pretty much the epitome of pleasant. One

of Scarborough’s residents said to me that

visiting Filey was like stepping back to the

1950s, and while the town doesn’t look

like it’s stuck in the middle of the 20th

century, its atmosphere does seem to hark

back to a more genteel and civilised time.

Even Filey’s seafront is tranquil and, sur-

prisingly, largely residential, its ‘pleasure

beach’ section tucked away at the north-

eastern end of the seafront, out of sight of

the main part of town up the hill.

With good cafés and B&Bs for those

who are staying, and decent transport links

for those who just want to get back home,

we think it’s a lovely place to end a national

trail….or, of course, to begin one.

Services

The tourist information point (:

discoveryorkshirecoast.com) is in the

Concert Hall on John St. It’s mostly just

leaflets but there is also a freephone linking

you to a dedicated Tourism Bureau team

based in Scarborough. This line is manned

daily in summer 9am-5pm, winter Monday

to Saturday only; if not in Scarborough you

can call this office (% 01723-383636) dur-

ing those hours for information on

Scarborough, Whitby and Filey.

The post office (Mon-Fri 9am-

5.30pm, Sat to 4pm) is next door.

Maybe reflecting the age of many of

its residents, Filey can boast no fewer than

three Boots the chemists; the one halfway

down Murray St (Mon-Sat 9am-5.30pm,

Sun 10am-4pm) is the largest and the only

one open on Sunday.

West on Station Ave is a Tesco

supermarket (Mon-Sat 7am-10pm, Sun

10am-4pm), while about 300m north of

here at 2C Mitford St is the trekking

outfitters Cammish Outdoors (% 01723-

513319; school summer holidays daily

9am-5pm, rest of year Mon, Tue & Thur-

Sat 9am-5pm). There is also a Spar (daily

7am-10pm) with an ATM at 3 Murray St.

Transport

Filey is a stop on Northern’s rail services

between Hull and Scarborough (see box

p49).

National Express’s No 327 and No

563 (see p51) also visit Filey bus station,

which lies in front of Tesco.

Bus-wise, EYMS runs the 12, 13 &

X21; there’s also SS’s 555 (the Filey Flyer).

Transdev’s seasonal X43 calls here en route

between Leeds and Bridlington. See box

pp52-3 for more details.

If coming by car see box p50 for infor-

mation on parking here.

What to see and do

There’s not a huge amount to do in Filey –

but that’s just fine. There is a museum (:

fileymuseum.org.uk; Easter-end Oct Sun-

Fri 11am-5pm, Sat 2-5pm; £2.50) that’s

entirely run by volunteers and tucked away

at 8-10 Queen St. Studying the history of

the town over seven rooms, the museum

includes exhibitions on the local lifeboat

service and Victorian Filey. The highlight

for us, however, was the room dedicated to

local 19th-century photographer Walter

Fisher and the pictures of the locals that he

took while residing here, that give a great

insight into how the town looked back then

in the days before mass tourism.

If you happen to be strolling in

Crescent Gardens, overlooking the beach,

do seek out the five stones found on Carr

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Filey 179

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R O U T E G U I D E A N D M A P S

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Filey

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To Filey Brigg Touring

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Ravine RdRavine RdRavine Rd

Church Cliff DriveChurch Cliff DriveChurch Cliff Drive

Queen StQueen StQueen St

Church StChurch StChurch St

Mitford StMitford StMitford St

Hope StHope StHope St

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Belle Vue StBelle Vue StBelle Vue St

Station AvenueStation AvenueStation Avenue

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Filey

Where to stay

1 Athol House

2 Beachdale

3 Rutland West Guest House

4 Filey Grange

5 Binton Guest House

6 Abbot’s Leigh

7 All Seasons Guest House

8 The Forge B&B

9 Esmae House

Naze in the middle of the 19th century

following a landslip, and which were later

determined to be pillar bases of Roman

origin. You can still make out the ‘hunting’

scene of a dog chasing a stag on the middle

of the stones.

Down on the seafront at Coble

Landing there is another large sculpture, A

High Tide in Short Wellies (see photo

overleaf), by local artist Ray Lonsdale, who

is also responsible for Freddie Gilroy and

the Belsen Stragglers in Scarborough (see

pp124-5).

Where to stay

For once, campers actually have the most

convenient accommodation for the trail.

Filey Brigg Touring Caravan Park (Map

48; % 01723-513852, : fileybriggcaravan

park.campmanager.com;

; Mar-Dec) has

pitches for around £11 per night for up to

two people.

Filey is well-stocked with B&Bs. West

Ave is a good place to start looking, with

well-appointed Binton Guest House (%

01723-513753, : bintonguesthouse.co.uk;

2T/2D/1D or T, all en suite, 1Tr, private

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180 Filey

________________________________________________________

facilities; WI-FI), at No 23, where rates are

around the £39-42pp mark (sgl occ from

£60, though full room rate required on bank

hols and in summer).

Just along the Avenue at No 27 is Filey

Grange (% 01723-513396, : fileygrange

.co.uk; 3D/1Qd, all en suite;

; WI-FI). All

the rooms have a fridge and the twin and

double rooms on the third floor have a con-

necting door and can sleep up to four peo-

ple. Rates are £40-57.50pp (sgl occ rates on

request); note that there’s often a two-night

minimum stay policy in high season but it

is always worth calling to check. From Feb

2019 a continental-style breakfast will be

served in the rooms; a cooked breakfast

will no longer be available.

Further along still, at No 67, is Athol

House (% 01723-515189, : athol-guest

house.co.uk; 3D/1T/1Qd, all en suite;

WI-

FI), one of the cheaper options if you’re

travelling alone, with single occupancy

from £45, two sharing from £35pp.

Rutland St, just around the corner is

another happy hunting ground. At No 2A,

where Rutland St meets West Ave, is the

smart Rutland West Guest House (%

01723-514750, : rutlandwestfiley.co.uk;

1D/2D or T/1Qd, all en suite;

; WI-FI;

), one of the few places in town that

allows dogs in its rooms, with rooms from

£37pp (sgl occ from £60).

Moving down the road, at No 7 there’s

cheerful Abbot’s Leigh (% 01723-513334,

: abbotsleighguesthouse.co.uk; 3D/2D or

T/1Tr, all en suite;

; WI-FI), where rates

start at £37.50pp (sgl occ from £50, though

full room rate in summer); All Seasons

Guest House (% 01723-515321, : allsea

sonsfiley.co.uk; 4D/1D or T/1Tr, all en

suite;

WI-FI), at No 11, which charges

£42.50-50pp (sgl occ from £65); The

Forge (% 01723-514646, : theforgefiley

.com; 4D/1T, all en suite;

WI-FI) at No 23,

one of our favourites with some very nice-

ly furnished rooms (rates are from

£39.50pp, sgl occ from £60); and, next

door, at No 25, Esmae House (% 01723-

515493, : esmae-house.co.uk; 4D/1D or

T, all en suite;

WI-FI; Feb-Nov), perhaps the

smartest of the lot, with rates £37.50-45pp

(sgl occ room rate).

Away from these two streets, at 2

Brooklands is Beachdale Guesthouse (%

01723-317560, : beachdalefiley.co.uk;

3D/2D or T, all en suite;

; WI-FI; Ⓛ)

charges £40-45pp (sgl occ from £70).

Where to eat and drink

If you’re up early in the morning and need

a hit of caffeine, Filey Country Park Café

(daily 6.30am up to 6pm, closed Wed out-

side of school holidays) seems to be the

first place to open; see box p176. The menu

is fairly standard ‘caff’ style but good

value, with a sausage bap for £3.

Of those that open at more civilised

times, our favourite café is Coffee Shed

(Mon-Sat 8.30am-4.30pm), on Murray St,

whose menu seems unremarkable

(breakfasts, with beans on toast £2.50,

sandwiches, cakes and snacks) but which

seems to be the most popular with locals –

always a good sign.

Special mention must also be made of

Angela’s (Mon-Sat 10am-5pm, to 3pm

outside of summer), largely because of its

agreeable location hidden away below

Crescent Gardens, where you can pick up a

bacon sarnie with a hot drink for £4.50; the

popular Filey Deli (daily 9.30am-3pm),

with fairly priced sandwiches (£1.50-2.50);

and the excellent Lighthouse Tearoom

(Sat-Thur 10am-4pm; at the seaward end of

Belle Vue Terrace) because it’s very frien-

dly and the items on their menu,

particularly the freshly home-baked scones

(cheese and fruit), are smashing.

Amazingly, finding a pub in Filey that

serves food is actually quite difficult

though there are a couple that are

recommendable. The first is the popular

Star Inn (% 01723-512031, : thestar

filey.co.uk; food Tue-Sat 5-8.30pm, Sun

noon-4pm;

WI-FI) at 23 Mitford St. Open

evenings only during the week, mains are

£9.45-17.95 and there’s a decent veggie

selection (all veggie mains £9.45); they

also do a decent value Sunday lunch

(£6.95-8.95 depending on the size).

The second option is The Station on

Church St which plays host to Sizzling

Griddle (Mon-Wed 3-7.45pm, Fri noon-

7.45pm, Sat 11am-7.45pm, Sun noon-

R O U T E G U I D E A N D M A P S

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Filey 181

________________________________________________________

4pm); it offers pizzas from £4.95 and

burgers that range from £8.95 up to £18.95

for the Towering Inferno, a monster of a

burger that includes four beef patties and

twelve rashers of bacon, all smothered with

a mountain of cheese and chilli con carne!

They also do an array of pub classics

(lasagne, chilli etc) which are all reasona-

bly priced at £8.95.

The only problem with both these pubs

is that they are a few minutes’ walk from

the town centre, which may be too much for

those who finished their trek and decided

that, for the next few days at least, they

want to do as little walking as possible. If

that’s you, and you’re staying in the town

centre, you may need to rely on the

restaurants for your evening dining. The

best of them include the Italian, San Marco

(% 01723-515457, : sanmarcofiley.co.uk;

Tue-Sun 5-10pm), on Murray St, with

pizzas and pasta for £7.30-9.40; and the

simply named Filey Curry House (%

01723-514567, : fileycurryhouse.com;

daily 5-11pm) with dishes from £5.95.

Alternatively, fish & chips can be

found either at Inghams (Mon-Thur

11.45am-2pm, Fri & Sat 11.45am-2pm &

4.15-6.45pm, Sun noon-6.45pm), on Belle

Vue St, or on the way to the railway station

at the much smarter First Catch (daily

11.30am-9pm), 16 Belle Vue Crescent.

Finally, the top place for fast food is

Filey Stone Bake (% 01723-518333, :

filey-stone-bake.business.site; Sun-Thur

4pm-midnight, Fri-Sat to 2am), centrally

located on John St, with pizzas from £4.50,

kebabs from £4 and free local delivery.

R O U T E G U I D E A N D M A P S

Above: A High Tide in Short Wellies, by

Ray Lonsdale (see box pp124-5).

Cleveland-2 04b_Layout 1 21/08/2018 22:18 Page 45

MAP WAYPOINT OS GRID REF DESCRIPTION

1 001 N54° 14.780’ W1° 03.698’ Market Cross, Helmsley

2 002 N54° 15.060’ W1° 07.203’ Riveaulx Bridge

3 003 N54° 15.188’ W1° 10.750’ Junction by scruffy barn before Cold

Kirby

4 004 N54° 13.508’ W1° 12.798’ White Horse

4 005 N54° 14.423’ W1° 12.641’ Sutton Bank National Park Centre

5 006 N54° 15.817’ W1° 13.508’ Junction with path to Boltby

6 007 N54° 17.529’ W1° 13.701’ High Paradise Farm

7 008 N54° 19.225’ W1° 14.861’ Location of Old Limekiln House

8 009 N54° 19.884’ W1° 14.782’ Gate & cattle grid before distinctive

bend in Hambleton Street

9 010 N54° 21.387’ W1° 15.831’ Square Corner

10 011 N54° 22.119’ W1° 17.975’ Osmotherley’s central square

11 012 N54° 23.791’ W1° 16.352’ Scarth Nick

12 013 N54° 24.279’ W1° 13.418’ Second huge cairn

13 014 N54° 25.220’ W1° 11.597’ Lord Stones

14 015 N54° 25.328’ W1° 07.113’ Clay Bank Top

15 016 N54° 24.341’ W1° 05.196’ Boundary marker known as the

‘hand stone’

16 017 N54° 24.315’ W1° 03.172’ Bloworth Crossing

17 018 N54° 27.250’ W1° 03.633’ Take the right-hand (easterly) path

through the green gate

17 019 N54° 27.269’ W1° 03.598’ Path meets road

18 020 N54° 28.123’ W1° 04.005’ Turn-off to Park Farm

19 021 N54° 28.598’ W1° 03.854’ Glebe Cottage (tearoom), Kildale

20 022 N54° 28.979’ W1° 05.444’ Captain Cook Monument

20 023 N54° 30.329’ W1° 06.436’ Roseberry Topping

21 024 N54° 30.971’ W1° 03.521’ Highcliff Nab (viewpoint)

22 025 N54° 31.959’ W1° 00.309’ Slapewath

23 026 N54° 32.497’ W1° 00.225’ Airy Hill Farm

24 027 N54° 34.343’ W0° 58.775’ Footbridge under viaduct

25 028 N54° 35.144’ W0° 58.132’ Where the Cleveland Way

meets the sea!

26 029 N54° 34.421’ W0° 54.090’ Skinningrove jetty

27 030 N54° 34.046’ W0° 52.214’ Information board by farmhouse

28 031 N54° 33.959’ W0° 50.443’ Turn-off to trig point on Boulby Cliff

29 032 N54° 33.451’ W0° 47.392’ Left turn after Church St

30 033 N54° 31.973’ W0° 45.006’ Top of slipway at Runswick Bay

31 034 N54° 31.658’ W0° 44.492’ Turn-off from Runswick Beach

up second gully

32 035 N54° 31.144’ W0° 41.314’ Footpath to Lythe

33 036 N54° 29.563’ W0° 38.689’ Sharp turn left off A174 onto path

through golf course.

34 037 N54° 29.423’ W0° 36.959’ Captain Cook statue and Whalebone

Arch

35 038 N54° 28.683’ W0° 34.143’ High Lights Lighthouse

36 039 N54° 27.649’ W0° 32.955’ Where the Cleveland Way meets the

Coast to Coast Path

APPENDIX A: GPS WAYPOINTS

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188 Index

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packed lunches 24, 25

parking see car parking

Peak Alum Works, ruins of

56, 157, 159

phones see mobile phones

and telephones

Port Mulgrave 134, 135

post offices 27, 28, 34

Potters Ridge 113

public holidays 28

public transport 48-54

pubs 23, 25-6, 28

rail services

to Britain 48

within Britain 48-9, 50, 51

rainfall 15

Ramblers 44, 47

Ravenscar 158-60, 159

Ravenscar Chain Home Low

Radar Station 160, 161